Traghetto

Should you find yourself cursing the paucity of bridges across the Grand Canal, head for a traghetto. One of Venice’s best-kept secrets, these gondolas, stripped of their gaudy livery to accommodate a dozen swaying locals, traverse the city’s main waterway at seven strategic points. Pay no more than L.700 a head and hold on tight – locals stand up for the ride and you risk a telling off from the oarsman if you try to take a seat.